Thursday, March 29, 2012

Mal Pais, The Bad Lands, The Good Life













The above 2 pictures were taken at 5:45 am , looking due east . We were out at a river mouth point on the back side of the peninsula as the swell was wrapping in hard and heavy and closing out west side. The night before was one of the best sessions I've ever had, 10 -12 feet faces with bigger sets , winding down the point 300 to 500 yards. Both Melissa and I caught the longest waves of our lives. Very shallow , sharp and fun!!!
P.S. The above shots got a little morning sickness on them early , the off shores kicked in and it went the hell off. 6 to 8 feet and grinding down the point all morning.


Hola Surfriders, Starting to sift throw some of the pix. The best surf trip I've ever been on. Not many surf shots as no way to secure stuff on beach while surfing. We usually just wandered down the hill and surfed all morning until we were cooked. Ate the killer breakfast , seista , cerveza, and wandered around . Zip line was awewsome !!! I'll start post a few of the shots. Awesome place, surf, and people, Zog

2 comments:

  1. Had a couple days of double overhead surf , which slowly subsided over the week to head high. Everyday was like surfing perfect east coast hurricane surf!!! Cold cerveza , great people, scenery , and hammock time made it the best surf trip of my life.Zog

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