Howzit Surfriders ,Another cold flat day , sitting here watching Chasing the Lotus , got me daydreaming about great surf trips gone by . Here's a shot from 1986 {25 Years ago } damn I'm getting old . This little nugget is on the inside at Rio Nexpa , before it was popular . Just a few palapas on the point and about a dozen people in the water at a time , as the surf was on for most of the day , every day. No digital photography , just good old Kodak film and a prayer . Was riding my shortboard for the trip a 6'2" Rusty and and had a 7'8" for the bombs . What a great 2 month trip. Photo by David Nelson , the original owner of the Cove Surf Shop . Pray for Surf , Zog
I love the pink, kinda spiritual sheen,that pervades that shot as it so adds to the what it is you may be experiencing. Hard to beat the character of analogue film. Man your left arm is deep into the face of that one setting up beautifully for the coming tunnel of joy!
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